A Bare Metal
P-40E; Part Two
by Rodney Williams
"The Aft Fuselage Section"
For some reason, Hasegawa made the fuselage with two front half
and two rear half section's. I forgot to take photos of this
operation. I glued the two rear fuselage section together, and
left off the stabilizers' and rudder in step #5. I glued this
rear section to the front fuselage section, and finalized the
sanding of the entire fuselage. The 3 piece wing had been glued
together and sanded, so it was attached to the fuselage. It
was more sanding, checking for flaws and re-scribe several panel
lines. The final step was to add the stabilizer/elevator combinations,
then sand some more. The rudder will be attached on final assembly.
"Making My Frisket Film
The entire model was painted with Tamiya's Titanium Silver,
which gives the model a slight dull appearance. Then the flat
black Tamiya paint was added to the top front section of the
model for its' "anti-glare" panel.
Now it's time to make my Aussie insignia spray patterns. This
is a very easy operation as I have done it many times before.
I calculate the size of my fuselage and wing roundel's, then
cut out the circles on my "frisket film." This low
tack film is applied over very dry paint, then you just burnish
it down "very lightly" and spray on your color's.
I applied Tamiya XF-1 Flat White first and let it dry for about
5 minutes, then I positioned my small circle in the center,
then airbrushed on a dark flat blue Tamiya paint which was a
close match to my AeroMaster British decals.
My next project is making the
wing and fuselage antenna post's. Of course this is easy for
me to do as I have made these posts for dozen's of other models.
I just drill in a .013" diameter hole into a .020"
diameter round styrene rod and insert a .010" dia rod.
When I push in the .020" dia. rod into my pre-drilled .021"
dia. holes in the wing and fuselage, the little .010"dia.
rod keeps the bigger rod from going all the way in and out of
sight. When I get ready to attach my human hair antenna wires,
I just pull out the little .010" diameter rod. Old age
has set in and I have "shaky hands" these days, so
it's a bit of a problem getting the hair into the hole. Once
the hair is in the holes, I tie it and then apply a tiny "micro-dot"
of super glue. The hair is stretched tight at the other end,
and more glue is applied. Next, I "CAREFULLY" cut
off the excess hair.
These few photos show the underside
of the model. REMEMBER THIS: If you enter your model in a National
IPMS/USA contest, we judges pick up "ALL" the models.
If you expect to win an award, then the bottom of your model
"MUST" be as good as the top side. I have judged at
11 National USA show's, and I have seen lots of bad stuff on
the models' bottom........these models never get into the winning
circle. Lot's of modeler's flatten the bottom of the tires,
but forget to "RE-GROVE" them...............so out
goes the model from the winners circle.
The rest of the photos show the finished model. I added some
light black oil weathering to the model. Look hard at my photos
as you may be able to find a few flaws on it.
Rodney in snowbound Colorado